Knitty: Winter 2006

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by Laura Chau Still feeling the cold beneath your handknit woolen sweaters? Need a little something to wear fire-side in the chalet after a day on the slopes? Thermal is the kind of shirt you’ll wear all those cold winter days – warm, thin, and perfect for layering. The fine gauge might take a little longer than usual, but it’s well worth it! Knit in a lightweight, comfortable and affordable wool/silk yarn, Thermal will provide an extra bit of warmth in your winter arsenal. Styled after longjohns with an easy stretchy waffle stitch, Thermal features a fun deep scoopneck and traditional button placket. The body and sleeves are knit in the round to the armscye, so there’s a minimum of sewing up with a maximum impact. This top is meant to be fitted, so choose the size closest to your full bust measurement, rounding down if you’re between sizes. Or go for a full size smaller to ensure a body-hugging fit!
model: Alexis Da Silva-Powell photos: Laura Chau


SIZE
A[B, C, D, E, F, G, H, J] [shown in size B] Editor's note: because this pattern is designed to be fitted to your body, the designer has offered it in twice the usual number of sizes -- enjoy!

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 32[34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 48, 52] inches Length: 21.5[22, 23, 23.5, 23.5, 24.5, 24.5, 25.5, 26] inches

MATERIALS
Knitpicks Gloss [70% merino wool, 30% silk; 220 yd/201m per 50 g skein]; color: #23872 Woodland Sage, 7[7, 8, 8, 9, 9, 10, 11, 11] skeins 1 24- or 36-inch US #2.5/3 mm circular needle (shorter needle for smaller sizes, longer needle for larger sizes) 1 set US 2.5/3 mm double-point needles 2 x 5/8-inch buttons Stitch markers Waste yarn or safety pin Split ring marker or safety pin Stitch holders Tapestry needle

GAUGE
28 sts/36 rows = 4 inches in Waffle Stitch

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here]
Waffle Stitch (Worked over a multiple of 4 sts) Worked in the round: Rounds 1 & 2: [K2, p2] to end. Round 3: K all sts. Round 4: P all sts. Repeat these four rounds for Waffle Stitch. Worked back and forth, beginning with a WS row: Rows 1 & 2: [K2, p2] to end. Rows 3 & 4: P all sts. Repeat these four rows for Waffle Stitch. Worked back and forth, beginning with a RS row: Rows 1 & 2: [K2, p2] to end. Rows 3 & 4: K all sts. Repeat these four rows for Waffle Stitch. Twisted Rib (Worked over an even number of sts) Worked in the round: Round 1: [K1 tbl, p1] to end. Repeat this round for Twisted Rib. Worked back and forth: Row 1: [K1 tbl, p1] to end. Row 2: [K1, p1 tbl] to end. Repeat these 2 rows for Twisted Rib. Buttonhole Row 1 [RS]: Work 2 sts, BO 3 sts in patt, work to end in patt. Row 2 [WS]: Work to bound off sts, CO 3 sts, work to end in patt. Three-Needle Bind Off Hold both pieces of knitting with right sides together. Insert needle into first st on front needle and first st on back needle, and knit them together. Repeat this for the next st on the front and back needles. Draw the first st worked over the second st. Repeat from * to * until all sts have been bound off. Break yarn and draw through remaining st.

DIRECTIONS
Lower Body Using circular needle, CO 224[240, 252, 268, 280, 296, 308, 336, 364] sts. Place marker and join to begin working in the round, being careful not to twist. Work in Twisted Rib until work measures 2 inches. Work in Waffle Stitch until work measures 12[12, 13, 13, 13, 13.5, 13.5, 14, 14] inches (or 2 inches less than desired length to underarm), ending with Round 4 of patt. Divide for Neckline Placket: Work first 52[56, 59, 63, 66, 70, 73, 80, 87] sts of next round in patt as set. Place next 8 sts on waste yarn or safety pin for neckline placket. Turn work so WS is facing. Continue as follows: Row 1 [WS]: Work Row 2 of Waffle Stitch (following directions beginning with a RS row) to marker; work Row 1 of Waffle Stitch (following directions beginning with a WS row) to end. Row 2 [RS]: Work Row 2 of Waffle Stitch (following directions beginning with a WS row) to marker; work Row 3 of Waffle Stitch (following directions beginning with a RS row) to end. Row 3 [WS]: Work Row 4 of Waffle Stitch (following directions beginning with a RS row) to marker; work Row 3 of Waffle Stitch (following directions beginning with a WS row) to end. Row 4 [RS]: Work Row 4 of Waffle Stitch (following directions beginning with a WS row) to marker; work Row 1 of Waffle Stitch (following directions beginning with a RS row) to end. Repeat Rows 1-4 until work measures 14[14, 15, 15, 15, 15.5, 15.5, 16, 16] inches (2 inches from beginning of placket) or desired length to underarm, ending with a WS row. Divide for Armholes: Next Row [RS]: Work first 52[56, 59, 63, 66, 70, 73, 80, 87] sts of next row in patt, place these sts on stitch holder; BO 6[7, 8, 10, 11, 7, 8, 8, 8] sts, work in patt to marker, remove marker; place last 52[56, 59, 63, 66, 70, 73, 80, 87] sts of row on stitch holder. 106[113, 118, 124, 129, 141, 146, 160, 174] sts on needle. Next Row [WS]: BO 6[7, 8, 10, 11, 7, 8, 8, 8] sts, work in patt to end of row. 100[106, 110, 114, 118, 134, 138, 152, 166] sts. Upper Back Sizes F, G, H, J Only: BO -[-, -, -, -, 7, 8, 8, 8] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. -[-, -, -, -, 120, 122, 136, 150] sts. All Sizes: Next Row [RS]: K2, ssk, work in patt to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. Work 1 row in patt, maintaining 3 sts at each edge in stockinette st. Repeat these 2 rows 5[6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 7, 9, 11] times more. 88[92, 96, 98, 102, 102, 106, 116, 126] sts. Work in patt until work measures 21[21.5, 22.5, 23, 23, 24, 24, 25, 25.5] inches (armhole measures 7[7.5, 7.5, 8, 8, 8.5, 8.5, 9, 9.5] inches from initial BO), ending with a WS row. Shape Back Neckline and Shoulders Next Row [RS]: Work first 20[22, 22, 22, 24, 24, 26, 28, 31] sts in patt, place these sts on stitch holder for right shoulder; BO next 48[48, 52, 54, 54, 54, 54, 60, 64] sts, work in patt to end. 20[22, 22, 22, 24, 24, 26, 28, 31] sts on needle. Work 3 rows in patt. Next Row [RS]: Work 14[15, 15, 15, 16, 16, 18, 19, 21] sts in patt, w&t. Work in patt to end. Next Row [RS]: Work 7[8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 9, 10] sts in patt, w&t. Work in patt to end. Next Row [RS]: Work all sts in patt, picking up wraps and working them together with wrapped sts. Place all sts on stitch holder. Replace held sts of right shoulder on needle with WS facing and reattach yarn. Work 2 rows in patt. Next Row [WS]: Work 14[15, 15, 15, 16, 16, 18, 19, 21] sts in patt, w&t. Work in patt to end. Next Row [WS]: Work 7[8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 9, 10] sts in patt, w&t. Work in patt to end. Next Row [WS]: Work all sts in patt, picking up wraps and working them together with wrapped sts. Place all sts on stitch holder. Upper Left Front With RS facing, replace 52[56, 59, 63, 66, 70, 73, 80, 87] held sts of Left Front on needle and rejoin yarn. (Remember, if the RS of the work is facing, the Left Front will be on your right.) Row 1 [RS]: BO 6[7, 8, 10, 11, 7, 8, 8, 8] sts, work in patt to end of row. Row 2 [WS]: BO 9[9, 10, 10, 10, 11, 11, 11, 12] sts, work in patt to end. Sizes A, B, C, D, E Only: Row 3 [RS]: K2, ssk, work in patt to end. Sizes F, G, H, J Only: Row 3 [RS]: BO -[-, -, -, -, 7, 8, 8, 8] sts, work in patt to end. All Sizes: Row 4 [WS]: BO 9[9, 10, 10, 10, 11, 11, 11, 11] sts, work in patt to end. 27[30, 30, 32, 34, 34, 35, 42, 48] sts. Note: Read ahead! Armhole and neckline shaping are worked at the same time, starting on the next row. While working neckline and armhole shaping, maintain 3 edge sts in stockinette st. Shape Armhole Next Row [RS]: K2, ssk, work in patt to end. Work 1 row in patt. Repeat these 2 rows 4[5, 5, 6, 6, 8, 7, 9, 11] times more. AT THE SAME TIME, shape neckline as follows: Work 4[4, 4, 4, 4, 6, 6, 4, 4] rows in patt. Next Row [RS]: Work in patt to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. Work 3[3, 3, 3, 3, 0, 0, 3, 3] rows in patt. Sizes A, B, C, D, E, H, J Only: Repeat these 4[4, 4, 4, 4, -, -, 4, 4] rows 1[1, 1, 2, 2, -, -, 3, 4] times more. All Sizes: 20[22, 22, 22, 24, 24, 26, 28, 31] sts remain. Work in patt until armhole measures 7.25[7.75, 7.75, 8.25, 8.25, 8.75, 8.75, 9.25, 9.75] inches from initial BO, ending with a RS row. Next Row [WS]: Work 14[15, 15, 15, 16, 16, 18, 19, 21] sts in patt, w&t. Work in patt to end. Next Row [WS]: Work 7[8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 9, 10] sts in patt, w&t. Work in patt to end. Next Row [WS]: Work all sts in patt, picking up wraps and working them together with wrapped sts. Join to held sts of back left shoulder using Three-Needle Bind Off. Upper Right Front With RS facing, replace 52[56, 59, 63, 66, 70, 73, 80, 87] held sts of Right Front on needle and rejoin yarn. Row 1 [RS]: BO 9[9, 10, 10, 10, 11, 11, 11, 12] sts, work in patt to end of row. Row 2 [WS]: BO 6[7, 8, 10, 11, 7, 8, 8, 8] sts, work in patt to end. Sizes A, B, C, D, E Only: Row 3 [RS]: BO 9[9, 10, 10, 10, -, -, -, -] sts, work in patt to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. Row 4 [WS]: Work all sts in patt. 27[30, 30, 32, 34, -, -, -, -] sts. Sizes F, G, H, J Only: Row 3 [RS]: BO -[-, -, -, -, 11, 11, 11, 11] sts, work in patt to end. Row 4 [WS]: BO -[-, -, -, -, 7, 8, 8, 8] sts, work in patt to end. -[-, -, -, -, 34, 35, 42, 48] sts. All Sizes: Note: Read ahead! Armhole and neckline shaping are worked at the same time, starting on the next row. Shape Armhole Next Row [RS]: Work in patt to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. Work 1 row in patt. Repeat these 2 rows 4[5, 5, 6, 6, 8, 7, 9, 11] times more. AT THE SAME TIME, shape neckline as follows: Work 4[4, 4, 4, 4, 6, 6, 4, 4] rows in patt. Next Row [RS]: K2, ssk, work in patt to end. Work 3[3, 3, 3, 3, 0, 0, 3, 3] rows in patt. Sizes A, B, C, D, E, H, J Only: Repeat these 4[4, 4, 4, 4, -, -, 4, 4] rows 1[1, 1, 2, 2, -, -, 3, 4] times more. All Sizes: 20[22, 22, 22, 24, 24, 26, 28, 31] sts remain. Work in patt until armhole measures 7.25[7.75, 7.75, 8.25, 8.25, 8.75, 8.75, 9.25, 9.75] inches from initial BO), ending with a WS row. Next Row [RS]: Work 14[15, 15, 15, 16, 16, 18, 19, 21] sts in patt, w&t. Work in patt to end. Next Row [RS]: Work 7[8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 9, 10] sts in patt, w&t. Work in patt to end. Next Row [RS]: Work all sts in patt, picking up wraps and working them together with wrapped sts. Join to held sts of back right shoulder using Three-Needle Bind Off. Sleeves (Make 2) Using double-point needles, CO 48[56, 60, 64, 64, 68, 72, 72, 76] sts. Join to begin working in the round, being careful not to twist. After a few rounds have been worked, place safety pin or split ring marker in work to indicate beginning of round. Work in Twisted Rib until work measures 2 inches. Work 2 rounds in Waffle Stitch. Increase Round: Work first st, m1, work in patt to last st, m1, work last st. Work 6[8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 7, 7] rounds in Waffle Stitch. Repeat these 7[9, 9, 9, 9, 9, 9, 8, 8] rounds 18[14, 14, 14, 15, 15, 15, 18, 18] times more, then work Increase Round once more. 88[88, 92, 96, 98, 102, 106, 112, 116] sts. Continue in patt until work measures 17.5[18.5, 18.5, 19, 19, 19.5, 19.5, 20, 20] inches, or desired length to underarm. Shape Sleeve Cap Next Round: BO 6[7, 8, 10, 11, 7, 8, 8, 8] sts, work in patt to end. Note: From this point, sleeve cap is worked back and forth. Next Row [WS]: BO [7, 8, 10, 11, 7, 8, 8, 8] sts, work in patt to end. 76[74, 76, 76, 76, 88, 90, 96, 100] sts. Sizes F, G, H, J Only: BO -[-, -, -, -, 7, 8, 8, 8] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. -[-, -, -, -, 74, 74, 80, 84] sts. All Sizes: Decrease Row [RS]: K2, ssk, work in patt to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. Work 1 row in patt. Repeat these 2 rows 14[10, 12, 8, 8, 2, 2, 3, 5] times more. 46[52, 50, 58, 58, 68, 68, 72, 72] sts. Work Decrease Row. Work 3 rows in patt. Repeat these 4 rows 5[8, 7, 10, 10, 14, 14, 14, 14] times more. 34[34, 34, 36, 36, 38, 38, 42, 42] sts. Sleeve cap measures 6[6.5, 6.5, 7, 7, 7.25, 7.25, 7.5, 8] inches. BO 7 sts at beginning of next 2 rows. BO remaining 20[20, 20, 22, 22, 24, 24, 28, 28] sts.

FINISHING
Placket Buttonhole Band: With RS facing, place held sts of neckline placket on a double-pointed or circular needle and rejoin yarn. Work in Twisted Rib until work measures 0.75 inch, ending with a WS row. Work Buttonhole (see Pattern Notes). Work 1 inch Twisted Rib, ending with a WS row. Work Buttonhole. Continue in Twisted Rib until placket reaches neckline edge. Break yarn and place sts on st holder. Button Band: With WS facing, pick up and p 8 sts at base of buttonhole band. (Pick these sts up in the purl bumps created by the pick-up row of the buttonhole band.) Work in Twisted Rib until band is same length as buttonhole band. Place sts on st holder. Collar Using circular needle, work held sts of buttonhole band in Twisted Rib, pick up and k 1 st in each bound off st and 4 sts for every 5 rows along right front neckline, along back neck, and along left front neckline; work held sts of button band in Twisted Rib. Work in Twisted Rib until collar measures 1 inch. BO all sts; when working BO row, work every 6th st as a [k2tog]. Sew placket bands to front edges of sweater. Sew buttons to button band, opposite buttonholes. Sew sleeves into armholes, easing sleeve cap to fit. Weave in ends and block as desired.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Laura Chau feeds her knitting and spinning addiction by working at lettuce knit in Toronto. In her spare time, she's busy finishing up her H.B.Sc. in Biology and Linguistics at the University of Toronto. Yeah, she doesn't quite know what she's doing either. She tells all at cosmicpluto knits! Editor's note: famous non-blogger Rachel H saw this sweater during the photosession, fell in love and "bought it" from Laura in exchange for a hefty donation to Knitters Without Borders [the Yarn Harlot's fundraiser for the worldwide charity Doctors Without Borders]. If you knit this sweater, please follow Laura and Rachel's lead and send whatever donation you can afford. Click the link above for full details, and more about what this amazing organization does to make the whole world better for everyone.
Pattern & images © 2007 Laura Chau. Contact Laura